Climb to Shurovsky peak - the classic route

ndependent climbing to Shurovsky peak is recommended only for those who are very experienced climbers. If you have some mountaineering experience, only climb to the top accompanied by an experienced guide. Route complexity - 2b
Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

Peak characteristic

At 4,280 meters, Shurovsky Peak is located in Mazeri village, of the Becho community, in Mestia municipality, on a small branch of the main watershed of the Caucasus Range. The Guli and Ushba glaciers descend from the slope, where there’s rubble, ice, snow, and a rocky ridge. The best views of Ushba are from the peak of Shurovsky.

Day 1

The route starts in Mazeri village, 1,672 meters above sea level, and continues 6 kilometers through a forest, rocky terrain, and the waterfalls of Shdugra before arriving at the Ushba glacier. 

Climb the glacier to the first camp, at 3,500 meters above sea level to the so-called rock shelf, a safe, dry area protected from the wind. There is drinking water and beautiful views near the camp. 

The vertical ascent is 1,828 meters and it takes 8-9 hours.

Day 2

From the first camp through the glacial labyrinth, pass to the second camp on the Ushba plateau, at 4,100 meters. 

The vertical climb is 600 meters and the coverage time depends on the state of the glacier. 

Day 3

The journey to the peak starts bright and early at 3 am. Cross along the easily passable  southern ridge. To traverse the route, you must be tied by a rope to each other, one after the other. After a 5-10 minute pause at the top, return to the Ushba plateau camp.

The ascent is 180 meters and takes 4-5 hours to complete.

Day 4

From the second camp, descend directly to Mazeri village. In case of bad weather and acclimatizing complications, 1-2 days may be added to the itinerary.

Additional Information

Climb Shchurovsky from mid-July to the end of August.

Rent any vehicle from the Mestia bus station and drive 27 kilometers from the center to the starting point of the route.

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