Climbing Tetnuldi – The Classic Route

Characteristics of Tetnuldi

Mt Tetnuldi stands 4,852 meters tall and is permanently covered in snow from 3,000 meters upward. It is located in the Mestia Municipality, on the main watershed range of the Caucasus Mountains. During the climb, one will encounter scree, snow, ice, crevasses, and a rocky ridge on the way up to the peak.

Tetnuldi has a remarkable ski resort on its slopes.

Day One

The route starts at 3,038 meters above sea level, traverses to the southeast, crosses a small ridge, on the way will encounter scree,  after that, the climb through the passage begins. 

Travel three kilometers from the starting point to the top of the passage and gain an additional 500 meters in elevation where you’ll come across ice sheets with crevasses.

From this point, travel two more kilometers and you will reach a campsite, set at an altitude of 3700. The campsite is located on the rocky surface, near the lake and is protected from the wind. A total 662-meter elevation needs to be gained to the campsite and it takes four to five hours.

Day Two

Acclimatize yourself on this day. You’ll climb up to 4,000 meters, where the guide will explain the safety rules, how to rope travel, and how to move on the mountain.

Day Three

Get some rest because, on this day, you will need to start the climb at 3 am! The route continues onto Tetnuldi Plateau, crosses over to a saddle, and then follows the southern ridge to the peak. From the campsite to the peak, you will gain 1,100 meters in elevation. Stay on top of the peak for at most five to ten minutes before you begin the descent.

Descending from the peak to all the way down can be done on the same day, but, if the group is too tired, you may spend another night at the campsite. In the case of inclement weather, the descent may be held off for one or two reserved days.

The climb and the descent take, on average, 7 to 10 hours.

Additional Information

The recommended period for climbing Mount Tetnuldi is between the middle of July and the end of September.

The starting point of the climb is 25 km away from mestia, and you will need an SUV to reach it. You can rent one at the Mestia bus station.