Climbing South Ushba - classic route

Independent climbing to the South Ushba peak is recommended only for those who are very experienced climbers. If you have some mountaineering experience, climb to the top accompanied by an experienced guide. Route Complexity - 5b
Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

Peak characteristics

The 4,700-meter peak is located in the Mazeri village of the Becho community in the South Ushba municipality of Mestia, on a small branch of the main watershed ridge of the Caucasus. The Guli and Ushba glaciers descend from the slope of the peak and, along the way, there’s a relief of broken stones, ice, snow cover, and a rocky ridge.  

Day 1

The route starts in Bagvdanari village, 1,560 meters above sea level. From here, passing through Guli village, sits the first camp at 2,900 meters above sea level, with water readily available, at the foot of the South Ushba and Guli peaks.

The vertical ascent is 1,340 meters and takes around 8-10 hours.

Day 2

Head from the first camp to the second, tied by a rope to one another. The vertical climb is 1200 meters and takes about 6-8 hours. The most difficult section is at the foot of the "key" and the second camp is located at 4,100 meters.

Day 3

Start at dawn up the main 150-meter vertical path. This rocky wall is ranked at 5b and passes the entire area uphill. The whole process is hard work requiring rope and equipment. After you pass the wall, you reach the sharp peak of the ridge, which can be completed in 2 hours at best. After a 5-minute break at the top, return to the second camp via the same route, climbing 600 meters vertically. 

Required time: 6-7 hours.

Day 4

From the second camp, we descend directly to Bagvdanari village. In case of bad weather and acclimatizing complications, 1-2 days may be added to the itinerary.

Additional Information

Climb the southern Ushba peak from mid-July to the end of August.

Rent any vehicle from the Mestia bus station and drive 27 kilometers from the center to the starting point of the route.

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