Climbing Small Ushba - classic route

Independent climbing to the Small Ushba peak is recommended only for those who are very experienced climbers. If you have some mountaineering experience, you should climb to the top accompanied by an experienced guide. Route complexity - 2b.
Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

Peak characteristic

The peak of Small Ushba, at a height of 4,250 meters, is located in Mazeri village of Becho community, in the Mestia municipality, on a small branch of the main watershed ridge of the Caucasus. Guli and Ushba glaciers descend from the slope and along the way, there is a relief of broken stones, ice, snow cover, and a rocky ridge.

Day 1

The route starts from the village of Mazeri at an altitude of 1,672 meters above sea level. Through the Shdugra waterfalls, travel 6 kilometers to the glacier, both through the forest and  rocky terrain. 

From the glacier, you reach the first camp, at 3,500 meters above sea level, on the so-called rock shelf, in a safe, dry, and wind-protected place. The camp has water and beautiful open views. 

The vertical climb is 1,828 meters and it takes 8-9 hours to reach the first camp. 

Day 2

From the first camp through the glacial labyrinth, move to the second camp, on the Ushba plateau, at 4,100 meters. 

The vertical climb is 600 meters and the coverage time depends on the state of the glacier. 

Day 3

The journey to the peak starts at a bright and early 3 am. Endurance and physical preparation are required for climbing this 250-meter cliff. After a 5-minute pause at the top, climb again to the second camp.

The vertical climb is 250 meters and takes around 5-7 hours.  

Day 4

From the second camp, descend directly to Bagvdanari village. In case of bad weather and acclimatizing complications, 1-2 days may be added to the itinerary.

Additional information

Climb the southern Ushba peak from mid-July to the end of August.

Rent any vehicle from the Mestia bus station and drive 27 kilometers from the center to the starting point of the route.

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