Climbing the North Face of Ushba – The Classic Route

Characteristics of the Peak

Ushba Peak is 4,690 meters tall and located on a small branch of the main watershed range of the Caucasus Mountains, in the village of Mazeri, in the Mestia Municipality. The Guli and Ushba glaciers descend from the peak, where you encounter rubble, ice, snow, and a ridge.

Day One

The route begins in the village of Mazeri, 1,672 meters above sea level. Continue six kilometers towards the Ushba Glacier and pass by the Shdugra waterfalls, a forest, and a rocky landscape. 

Within eight to nine hours, you’ll gain 1,828 meters in elevation to reach the first camp called the “Cliff Shelf”, a safe, dry, leeward resting place.

Day Two

After you make your way through the maze of the glacier from the first camp, we transfer via suspension ropes, to the second camp on Ushba Plateau, gaining 600 meters in elevation for a total of 4,100 meters above sea level.

How long it takes is dependent on the state of the glacier. If you need more time to acclimatize, stay an extra day on the plateau.

Day Three

This route takes around six to eight hours on average, so start heading for the peak at 3 am. It starts by crawling along a 400-meter sheet of ice and then passing over a 190-meter-long sharp ridge. After spending five to ten minutes on the peak, you’ll return to camp.

Day Four

From the second camp, descend directly to Mazeri Village. In the case of inclement weather or if further acclimatization is needed, you can extend an extra day.

Additional Information

We recommend climbing the north face of Ushba from the middle of July to the end of September.

It is 27 kilometers from the center of Mestia to the designated point (the starting point of the route). Any kind of SUV will be helpful to cover that distance. If need be, transport can be rented at the Mestia Bus Station.