Climbing Chatini - classic route (with the western ridge)

Independent climbing to the top of Chatini is recommended only for experienced climbers. Beginners should climb the peak with an experienced guide. Route complexity - 3a
Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

Peak characteristic  

Chatini peak is located on a small branch of the main watershed ridge of the Caucasus, in the village of Mazeri, Becho community, Mestia municipality. Its height is 4412 meters above sea level. Two glaciers - Guli and Ushba descend from the slope of the peak, the area is covered with rubble, ice and snow, cracked ice, and there is also a rocky ridge.

Day 1

The route starts in the village of Mazeri, at an altitude of 1672 meters above sea level. From here we follow the path to the Ushba glacier. Through the Shdugra waterfalls we have to walk 6 kilometers to the glacier. The road passes through forest and rocky terrain. After that, the glacier begins. From the glacier we go to the first camp, which is located at an altitude of 3500 meters above sea level, on the so-called rock shelf - in a safe, dry and wind-protected place. In the camp, you can replenish your water supply and look at the beautiful views spread around. Climbing height - 1828 meters. It takes 8-9 hours to get to the first camp.

Day 2

From the first camp, through the labyrinth of the glacier, we move to the second camp, on the Ushba plateau. which is located at an altitude of 4100 meters. 600 meters of vertical ascent, the passage time depends on the condition of the glacier. 

Day 3

Climbing to the top begins at dawn, at 03:00. We start the ascent from the western ridge of category 3a. The 200-meter ridge is covered with ice. Then we move on to the 112-meter rock ridge, where high climbing experience is required. From here we will reach Chatini Peak. Climbing height is 312 meters. After staying at the top for 5-10 minutes, we return to the second camp on the Ushba plateau.

Day 4

From the second camp we descend to the village of Mazeri. In case of bad weather or the need for additional time for acclimatization, the number of days can be increased by 1-2 days.

Additional Information

Climbing Chatini is recommended from mid-July to the end of August.

It is 27 km from the center of Mestia to the starting point of the route. Any off-road vehicle will do to reach the place. Transport can be rented at the Mestia bus station.

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