Nekresi Monastery

Nekresi Complex’s Architecture

The Nekresi Monastery Complex is located in eastern Kakheti, on the northern slope of the Gombori Ridge near the village of Shilda in Kvareli Municipality. Sitting at an elevation of 480 meters above sea level, it’s set on a mountain slope surrounded by woods.

The complex consists of several structures. The oldest of these is the so-called Small Church, which Georgian historian Giorgi Chubinashvili dates back to the second half of the 4th century, and the time of King Trdat of Kartli (though some scholars contest this view). Other notable buildings here include the three-church Nativity of the Virgin Basilica from the 6th-7th centuries, the Church of the Archangels from the 8th-9th centuries, and the Church of St. George, added in the 17th-18th centuries. The complex also comprises the impressive Bishop’s Palace, a 16th-century wine cellar with a four-story rectangular defensive tower, a refectory, monk cells, and other small structures.

The architecture of the Nativity of the Virgin Basilica is especially impressive. Being the largest structure within the complex, it is also the best preserved, despite its 15-century history. The Basilica has retained much of its original frescoed decoration (although the frescoes are from the 16th century and thus much younger than the building). The frescoes here include important Nekresi inscriptions, with texts in both Georgian Asomtavruli and Greek.

Inside the basilica, the altar decoration is particularly noteworthy. It’s divided into various parts: the apse shows the Virgin Mary with Christ, while the walls depict biblical scenes, saints, and historical figures, including King Levan of Kakheti, Queen Tinatin, and their son Alexander.

In 2006, the monastery was granted the status of a national monument by presidential decree. Today, Nekresi remains an important pilgrimage site and a place of historical and cultural interest, attracting thousands of believers and ordinary tourists each year.

Brief Historical Overview of Nekresi Complex

Construction on this site is thought to have begun as early as the 2nd-1st centuries BC when King Pharnajom of Iberia built the first temple. However, the first Christian church is thought to have been built here in the 4th century AD by King Trdat of Iberia (as mentioned earlier, some historians attribute the Small Church to him). However, the most renowned figure associated with the complex is Abibos of Nekresi, one of the 13 Assyrian Fathers, who settled here in the 6th century.

As the story goes, Abibos of Nekresi arrived from Syria with Ioane (John) of Zedazeni and initially lived and worked alongside him. Later, he took over the diocese of Nekresi and actively fought against Zoroastrianism, a religion promoted in Georgia by the Persians.

According to a local legend, the town was once attacked by Lezgin raiders and the townspeople sought refuge in the monastery. As the Lezgins laid siege, the people inside slaughtered pigs and poured their blood around the premises. This act was so repulsive to the Muslim Lezgins that they departed at once. This legend is said to have given rise to a tradition still observed today, whereby locals sacrifice a pig as an offering during the Nekresoba festival. Nekresoba is celebrated annually on January 7, coinciding with Orthodox Christmas.

Over the centuries, the monastery has played an important role in Georgia’s cultural and political life. Notable clergymen and writers, such as Dositeos Cherkezishvili, Zakaria Mikadze, and the poet-deacon Moses, all served here. After a scientific study of the monument in the 1920s, the complex underwent major restorations during the 1940s and 1950s.

How to Get to Nekresi Monastery Complex

Nekresi Monastery is approximately 130 km from central Tbilisi via the Vaziani-Gombori-Telavi highway. This route takes about 2 hours, although ongoing roadworks on the Gombori Pass may extend travel time by 30-45 minutes. An alternative option is to take the S5 (Tbilisi-Bakurtsikhe-Lagodekhi) highway and head toward Nekresi via Gurjaani. This route is longer at around 150 km and should take roughly 2.5 hours.

From Batumi, the fastest way to reach Nekresi is via Tbilisi. First, take the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze highway and then go through either Gombori or Gurjaani (i.e. the two routes described above). The distance from central Batumi to Nekresi is approximately 475 km, and the journey takes seven hours on average.

From Kutaisi, the best option is to also pass through Tbilisi, via the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze highway. The distance from Kutaisi to Nekresi is around 340 kilometers, with the average travel time being five hours.

Nearby Landmarks

Kakheti region, where Nekresi Monastery is located, is famous for its historical and cultural landmarks. Some of the most noteworthy located near Nekresi are:

Nekresi Fire Temple – Remains of a significant pagan shrine near the historic city of Nekresi, at the base of a hill. Only the foundation-level ruins of the monument remain, divided into two sections: the upper level is the base of the fortress-palace, and the lower is the base of the fire temple. The Nekresi Ruins date back to the 2nd-5th centuries. It’s a 5-10 minute drive from the monastery.

Ilia’s Lake - Also known as Kvareli Lake, it’s one of Kakheti's most beautiful natural landmarks, located at an elevation of 1,100 meters above sea level and surrounded by dense forest. During warmer months, it’s a popular picnicking and swimming spot, while in fall and winter, hikers visit for panoramic photos. It takes about 20 minutes by car to reach the lake from Nekresi.

Ilia Chavchavadze House-Museum – While several museums across Georgia are dedicated to Ilia Chavchavadze, the Kvareli museum stands out, as this is where Ilia was born. The complex includes the ancestral Chavchavadze family stone tower, a wine cellar, a traditional bread-baking facility (tone), and a granary. The three-story museum building, constructed in 1981, displays rich archival material. It’s a 20-25-minute drive from Nekresi.

Gremi Monastery – Another impressive historical complex located in Kvareli, built by King Levan of Kakheti in the 16th century. The complex includes the Church of the Archangels, a three-story palace-bell tower, a fortress wall, and other medieval remains. Currently, the Gremi Monastery area is an archaeological preserve where artifacts from excavations are on display. It’s a 25-minute drive from Nekresi.